by clicking the "Next" arrow.
by clicking on the page.
the page around when zoomed in by dragging it.
the zoom using the slider when zoomed-in.
by clicking on the zoomed-in page.
by entering text in the search field, and select "This Issue" or "All Issues"
by clicking on thumbnails to select pages, and then press the print button.
displays sections with thumbnails and descriptions.
displays a slider of thumbnails. Click on a page to jump.
allows you to browse the full archive.
about your subscription?
Mindful : April 2015
How wonderful, he says, are sustain- able staples like lentils from India, soba from Japan a nd—he goes even further, warming to the task—all the amazing world dishes utilizing scraps, trash fish, and trash crops. “ What is bouillabaisse but the damaged fish that wives of the fishermen would blend into a big stew? It is an iconic southern French staple,” he says. “All great cuisines a re littered with dishes like that, and it’s our job to make them into food that’s delicious. That’s the cooking challenge for the future.” Some of these changes will seem quite radical. For instance, vegetables like tomato and eggplant are hard on the soil and thus expensive from an ecological point of view, Barber says. “They’re the Hummers of the soil world.” Instead, we’ve got to be creative, understanding that we’re looking for foods produced in a positive relationship with the la nd. Diversity will be key, he says, since any sustainable landscape by definition includes many different types of plants. The mindfulness implied here isn’t only about being good to the earth. We’ve got to realize that what will work for us in the future is to lust for the right things, Barber says. He would argue that a seven-ounce steak can’t compare to the richness in a bowl of soba noodles. “There’s lots of energy in there, and outstanding uma mi flavours—it also hap- pens to be very beneficial for the soil.” In the US, some parts of Southern cuisine come closest to Ba rber’s vision of good soil husbandry. The Carolina New Year ’s Day specialty, Hoppin’ John, a rice and bean dish with West African origins, is a good example. The beans fix nitrogen in the soil, making it a menable to growing the rice. The collard greens commonly served alongside desalinate the soil, a big problem in low-lying areas. “ You also have pork, from hogs you let run through the forest. That smattering of cured pork infuses itself into the dish and puts a little fat in your mouth that carries the flavor,” he says. This combin- ing of elements into dishes and cuisines that have a direct relationship with the needs of the land is “an example of what we need to do a lot more.” It’s what Barber calls “whole fa rm eating,” which takes a tip-to-tail approach to our entire food ecosystem: nothing goes to waste and each element has its own job to do. So who ca n lead the way in bring- ing about such a massive cha nge in the way we eat? Enter the chef. “ We’re at a moment when chefs have a huge micro- phone,” Barber says. “ We have a n oppor- tunity if not an obligation to do this. It’s about utilizing the cultural icons that restaurateurs a nd chefs have become as a force for real good and change.” Diners are going to go for the food they believe is the most delicious and affordable, leaving chefs with a choice: Either point the way to a prime cut of meat or a dish that uses sustainable ing redients. Making delicious food from unusual ing redients—Ba rber’s future menu includes Milky Oat Tea with Cattail Snacks, Grain Risotto, and Trout with Phytoplankton—will take more thought, he admits. But what we need from cooking now is just such a transfor- mative act. These types of ingredients are less expensive, but chefs will need to pour into them more time and creativity. One saving grace of the American food culture, Barber believes, is that, lacking much tradition, it depends so much on fads. “Today Greek yogurt is taking over America,” he points out, “and butter is now making its way back.” Some might see this as a tragedy; he chooses to believe it is a n opportunity because being without traditions that must be protected at all costs means that, unlike many other cultures, “we can change on a dime. We’re a big country, we’re formi- dable, a nd we tend to invest in trends.” Make way, then, for the latest trend, in sustainable eating, heralded by the high- est profile trend-makers—this country ’s chefs, ma ny of whom, like Barber, spend time down on the farm. And look for Ba rber to keep telling his stories, not simply to promote a restaura nt or a thought-provoking book. He’s telling these tales so we can understand the big picture, make the connection between farm and table. “If you attach a story to the food you’re producing, you feed peo- ple on another level,” he says. “ You invite them to become involved, invested. They own their own story about the food they eat a nd they become impassioned.” ● Sustainable food can be food rich in taste, Barber says. Carefully cultivated varieties grown in nutrient-rich soils are more deeply satisfying than mass-produced monocultures. At right: Mokum carrots with a 16.9 Brix score (a measure of natural sweetness; 12 is considered high) and eight-row flint corn, which dates to the 1600s and was highly prized for its flavor by Native Americans. Both are grown at Stone Barns. April 2015 mindful 41 mindful food revolution